One Of The Best Surfing Spots In All Of Tahiti Is This Postcard-Worthy Black-Sand Beach

You'd be forgiven for thinking the Tahitian surf scene is out of your league. The destination in French Polynesia is often considered one of the most beautiful islands in the world, and recently hosted the surfing competition at the Paris Olympics on a wave called Teahupoʻo, one of the most intimidating spots on the planet. While practically every surfer dreams of getting spit out of this reef's pumping tube, that wave is not for everyone — it's not even for most of us. Only a few lifelong lunatics will ever get to the point where they can comfortably surf that wave at its maximum conditions.

So, while most of the surfing imagery the world is familiar with from Tahiti comes from Teahupoʻo, many surfers traveling to Tahiti are better off searching somewhere else. Somewhere like Plage De Papenoo — also known as Baie de Papenoo and Papenoo Beach. This quiet Tahitian beach has tons of excellent surfing potential. East Coast locals of Tahiti love surfing here, as it can provide cruisy longboard waves on some days and pitching barrel rides on others.

The pumping surf is just part of the parcel on the magnificent Papenoo Beach. Black sands that blanket the shore originate from the erosion of volcanos like the Tahiti Nui Volcano, which sculpted the entire Papenoo Valley. From majestic waterfalls to the variety of surf spots on Papenoo Beach, this area has plenty of adventure, and it's all far from the island's main tourist hotspots. Booking a small place nearby is a great way to spend your week surfing while enjoying Tahiti on a budget. 

Before dropping into standing barrels at Teahupoʻo, you'll have to put your 10,000 hours in at beaches like Plage De Papenoo. A great place to start surfing is a part of town known as "La Baie." This relaxed slice of beach helps beginners and old dogs learn new tricks, providing a gentle momentum that encourages lift-off for surfers of all ages. During a report on the beach by local news channel Polynésie la 1ère, surfers from Tahiti and abroad both recommended the gentle waves of this area for learning to paddle out. There are two main reasons. For one, waves in La Baie break more softly here than in some other spots, making them easier to ride. For another, this spot's sand-covered bottom lowers the risk of cutting your feet on rough reef, which are a notoriously dangerous spot in the ocean and prevalent in other parts of Tahiti.

There are several surf schools and rental shops on the road leading to Papenoo from Mahina to help you get the most out of this spot. If you're driving into Papaenoo from this direction, you'll pass through Orofara and Ahonu Beaches, too. These are two other frequented beaches in the area that are perfect for stunning sunset sessions. Once you've got a few green waves under your belt, you can head to different parts of the beach to take your surfing up a notch.

Across Papenoo, you might see classes lining up with 9 foot soft tops, eager to feel the rush of their first waves. You might also see professional surfers waxing shortboards and launching into 360s. If you're there on the right day, you might even see local legend and Olympic Gold Medalist Kauli Vaast sneaking into barrels and ripping sick airs. If Papenoo is good enough for him, it's good enough for us.

Intermediate surfers should check out the spot closest to Papenoo town center called "Embouchure de Papenoo," a river mouth formed where the Papenoo River dumps out to sea. River mouths can deposit runoff into readable sandbanks that create a more consistent wave — ideal when the Pacific cranks up and you want to know your exit strategy. When it's on, this river mouth can provide heavy barrels, so approach with equal parts caution and froth. Although there's no such thing as an easy barrel, Papenoo's reef-less section of coastline comes in handy, this time making it a slightly less risky choice for chasing cover-ups. The punishments you'll receive while you learn the ropes of barrel riding will still hurt, but they won't leave you with reef cuts. 

The bathymetry of the river mouth has helped create a wave with great form. Even on more mellow days, you'll still be paddling out amongst local boogie-boarders launching themselves skywards and surfers making the most of any rampy sections.